I had leg injury at weekend soccer game that aggravated by racing the Rumble Thru The Bronx II consequently had to give up the Boston-NYC R1 which bugged me a lot. After the Courier GANGBANG Baltimore alleycat impromptu decision was made: going KYOTO LOCO 2005 by riding fixed gears from Tokyo taking the ROUTE 1 all the way. On the map it's 380 miles +. We trained ourselves next two month. Jason S. had schedule conflict, would join us from Yokkaichi to Kyoto. Nona joined us just before two weeks to go.

DAY 1: 09-16-05 Tokyo -> Numazu
Everyone talk about it, if you go west from Tokyo, the rising Mt. Hakone. I wanted to climb it before it gets dark, set to start at 8AM. Weather forecast assured us hot sunny days rest of the week!

7AM, in front of Sumidagawa YH. We sent our bike travel bags, luggage to Kyoto first in the morning, carried only minimum pair of shirts, socks, and underwear. We must laundry cloth at every stay.

...and we had problem right from the start. My camel-bag started to leak. Nona found her front tire flat then broke my pump, other minuscule pump wouldn't be reliable for rest of ride, headed to the bike store in Kanda, of cause it wouldn't open until 11. The store surprised to meet us again from our previous day visit -- they gave us detailed direction let to ROUTE 1. It's already three and half hours in, we finally started riding 11:30.

Tokyo to Yokohama was kind'a tricky but from there right upto Mt. Hakone was blast. We got there 5:30pm. Considering the delay at the upstart we're in good pace however by the time we started to climb, it became completely dark.

As we heard that Mt. Hakone was special. On the ultra steep winding road at every corne there were hot spa ("onsen"). A couple waiting for bus must be surprised three of us pushing bike emerged from pitch dark. We took bus to the mountain top. The downhill was equally steep. Jason B didn't mount a brake on his fixed, we pushed bike until there were enough streetlights.

10:16pm we arrived at Numazu Grand Hotel. On the map, 94 miles+ from Tokyo.
     

DAY 2: 09-17-05 Numazu -> Fukuroi
The original plan was to ride to Hamanako YH in Arai. On the map it supposed to be 103 miles. But the plan was plan, it wouldn't go as intended...

Jason B got BB cup loose while climbing Hakone. First in the morning we fixed it, ready to ride!

Because I threw away leaking camel-bag, I entirely depended on water and sports drinks at vending machine. Luckily Japan was vending machine heaven: alcohol beverage, cigarette, hot coffee, hot noodle, etc. Every few blocks had vending machine(s) even at deep in mountain. We had 90 degree hot days throughout. Buying drinks at every stop turned out to be a major expense.

When we're crossing the magnificent view of Mt. Fuji Nona got flat. It was good to purchase the reliable pump yesterday but the brand-new tube popped as soon as she put her wheel back in. We got to Shizuoka around noon. Shizuoka was verdant hills facing blue quiet ocean, absolutely beautiful town. It was a favorite painting subject for Edo period artists telling the story of peregrinate to Kyoto.

ROUTE 1 was heavy traffic road many of them were stingy trucks stayed away from the highway toll as much as they could. If you follow the road sign in Japan it leads you to highway no matter what. Even worse, there were "new' R1 and old R1. Just followed the sign to R1 you'd be end up to new R1 Highway. Me and Jason B had to wait Nona to catch us up at the every road signs, taking breaks in every 20 minutes wasn't good pace. We ended up riding highway in late afternoon, cops waited for us at the exit. Apparently a lot of alerted drivers cellphoned police

Around the Kakegawa in a moonlight, we noticed there're limes of red lantana at hill slopes. It's beautiful from the pitch dark road... then we encountered an old man blocking traffic from entering to village

Turned out the entire village was in middle of harvest festival!

The shrine parade turned around right edge of the main road. Later we learned from the old man they didn't apply municipal authorities for the permit, couldn't block traffic to parade it. Old men were volunteering to sway away traffic entering to village. Totally local community thing! It's incredible, I was bit high.

When the road became more urbanized, we stopped at Ramen restaurant in 8:30 pm, called Hamanako YH informing we'd be late but the YH was closed already. We opted to clash in the nearest hotel in Fukuroi city. From Numazu to Fukuroi, 75miles.

DAY 3: 09-18-05 Fukuroi -> Arai
This day supposed to be a day-off but we were 30 miles away to Hamanako YH.

When we checked in, President of Fukuroi Business Hotel invited all of us to Karaoke but we graciously declined. Meeting with genuine old fashioned Japanese character was nice. We left there 10AM but Nona forgot her sunglasses had to back to the hotel again but couldn't find it.

On the map it's only 30 miles but it seemed twice long. The Hamanako area was beautiful, one side had the grand view of bridge, on the other hand there was Shinkansen (bullet train) running.

The bridge behind him was the popular stage for old samurai movies.
We arrived at Hamanako YH around 4pm. We looked forward for this day-off, even it's already late in the afternoon. Nona headed to 'onsen' spa 15 miles other side of the lake. Me and Jason B had $$$ eel dinner. Later Nona was estactic reporting us she was bathed head to toe by Japanese ladies at the onsen. For us it sounded more like she was molested by bunch of curious old women.

DAY 4: 09-19-05 Arai -> Yokkaichi
Right out from Arai city, Nona and Jason B found perfect beach to enjoy their vacations. It's 11AM already two hrs in. I'd ride just myself for next 90 miles. Able to keep up my own pace was great, I was at Nagoya by 3pm. Since March, there was Int'l Expo going-on in Nagoya. All roads were re-paved to pristine condition. Took Route 23 to shortcut. The R23 was three tiers five lanes super road. I was ready anytime to be stopped by cop but seemed I rode inbetween their shift, unmolested. Racing along with huge trucks on this high tech road made me feel like I was in the Blade Runner! My high pace ended abruptly by loud puncture on my rear tire just outside Nagoya.

There was huge outdoor goldfish dealer at the roadside of R1. See the price tag, it's ¥25,000 goldfish!!

Nishiki-Goi (colorful carp) often priced over ¥500,000 but this one's goldfish.

Mind you, this goldfish was the size of grapefruit!!

I got Yokkaichi in 5:30pm. Yokkaichi was clean, very modern looking city.  Later the evening I got a call from Jason S. arrived in the city ready to ride upto Kyoto following morning.

DAY 5: 09-20-05 Yokkaichi -> Kyoto
The last leg wouldn't be easy. We had to climb Mt. Suzuka. Good news is, unlike the Mt. Hakone, it's the first half of the ride. 94 miles on the map to finish this thing.

10:43AM. Jason S. at the entrance of the Mt. Suzuka.

Motorcyclist I met at the Hamanako YH tipped me ROUTE 477 would be less traffic. I was getting tired of trucks passing inches aside of me. We opted for R477.

As soon as the road got steep I got flat tire. This time's on front. There was almost no traffic, we're able to keep easy pace.

11:23AM. This snap shot was bit tilted. Go ahead to adjust your head angle make the telephone pole to vertical. Still you see how much steep the road was.

The down below was already masked by mist. At this point we made a pact we could take breaks as many as we needed but we never gonna push the bike. Fixed Gear tips on our shoulders.

12:24PM. Thought we were almost getting there but such sprit wrecking road there still was a white guardrail sight afar through trees and we were running out of water. Thank god there's gorgeous spring water at the side road.

12:57PM We made it to the peek. Later we found out R477 was much steeper than R1 but we liked it. Less car helped us a lot while we were struggling. I didn't pee on my pants. It's sweat to kill this hill!

Jaosn S had GPS. We started from the altitude 3 meters. From the entrance to here was 2km horizontally. It's 22+ degrees incline. There's steep downhill until merged to R1. Jason S kept the fixed gear principal by back-pedaling. My legs were already burnt out, used a brake. At the end, I could fry eggs on my front wheel.

It's all easy slow slope to Kyoto. We had ramen as our well deserved lunch.

This restaurant waitress somehow looked a lot like the heroin from the one of Miike film.

For centuries, every shogun to merchants passing the Suzuka must have prayed at this shrine for their safety.

We got to UNO HOUSE around 8pm. Took shower, had dinner, strolled down the street for ice cream, stumbled to Jason B and Nona dragging their bikes in box all way from Kyoto station. We made it to Kyoto!!

09-21-05 Day-off
Recuperating from the 380 miles ride, took easy day off. Jason S went sightseeing around the area, took lots of snapshots. There was public bath house ("sento") near our lodging. The sento had whole set of: bubble bath, dry sauna, steam sauna, cold dip and electric pulse bath. The pulse bath is Osaka/ Kansai specialty. If you're not careful your leg and butt would cramp badly standing still in the middle of the bath helpless.

Front of our lodging UNO HOUSE

This temple across from the UNO HOUSE had spring water well. Apparently it was famous for its quality.

For their teas, making Tofu, for their bistros, people lining up every day to fetch the water in bottles, gallon containers, coming by bike, by moppet, by car. Every day, all day long.

Old neighbor says, before the city subway system was made, the well used to spring an abundance of water.

 09-22-05 Day-off II

Me and Jason S checked out the KYOTO LOCO space. It's still desolated, only few volunteers racing with clock for tomorrow's opening. Nice to find Toru-san met at CMWC NYC few month back. We were about to leave for sight seeing but Messenger KAZE stuff kept us to help their work.

We cleaned up the entrance, draped the main sponsor banner, made a sound stages. I heard Trackstar crews helped them to carry entire crates of drinks. Squid, as the tallest one in the bunch, was also helping hanging 30 feet tall video screen.

Later we went downtown. You must check this Tako-yaki place at Teramachi-dori + Takoyakushi-dori at Shinkyogoku mall when you are in Kyoto.

Top of steak source + mayo, they put bonito three inches high plus scallions another three inches. You must dig tako-yaki deep under the toppings. Jason S ate entire half pound of scallions!

For NYC resident, complete absence of graffiti would make you uneasy. I couldn't restrain myself from taking snapshots when I found these at alley btwn the mall.

This dude rode the bike flat on front, and bare rim on rear!

Could be the future snap shot of myslef? Damn right!

This tiniest temple was in the middle of Shinkyogoku mall. Kyoto rules!

Back on the temple was grave yard. The size of a bedroom.

Again, it's in the middle of mall. Incredible. I asked young temple master permission to take snap shots. He was kind'a puzzled why I wanted to take pictures.

 09-23-05

Lines for KYOTO LOCO registrations. Trackstar bad boys front of us. The banner at the entrance we setup the day before looked great.

He's from Nagoya. Nicest cool guy. He and his friend vonteered setting up the space through the night.

KYOTO LOCO 2005 Checkpoints!

This photo isn't mine. The main race qualifiers. The largest KYOTO LOCO, there were three heats for qualifiers. Mine's entry #112. I got too greedy delivering too many, too late to comeback within the time frame. Many got DQ by the timelimit. In retrospect, I was dumb being greedy, getting qualified should've be the first priority.

After excellent BBQ, we had Gold Sprint. Zach from Trackstar pedaling with only shorts on as usual.

Jason S on sprint.
I entered trackstand compe.  There was no run-off space at all . I couldn't last even a minute! Later the evening all of us went 'sento' where had an outdoor hot bath. Many foreigner's in Kyoto. I suppose Nona wasn't the popular in the ladies.

 09-24-05

We went to Gen Well Pro factory 10 miles south from UNO HOUSE. Jason B eyed on the frame at the backroom asked about it to staff replied "it has crack, I won't be responsible if you whack your head open but take it." This lucky devil got Gan Well Pro frame, freebie!!

When we back, dispatcher race was already on.

Minira-san from T-Serv.

Dai-san and his crew.

Trackstar crew + Squid.

Trackstar dispatcher Brad loaded alright.

Wise-ass yanks assaulting Godzilla!

Heather from SF.

SF dispatcher lined up beers for their home run.

Chie-san and Dai-San won the mini bike competitions.

T-Serv team was ecstatic at the 2nd place for dispatch race.

Trackstar won the dispatch race.

Shino-san won the main race.

Messenger KAZE staff the event organizer. Thank you!

After the closing ceremony, MIXPRESSION folks nized alleycat at midnight. The winner took all the entry cash. Jason B almost got the first Out of Town. Super fun stuff.

We stayed another day in Kyoto. I bought super dope hat for souvenir. It was fantastic two weeks of life time. I wasn't particularly sentimental but taking sauna + bath at the sento more than hour appreciating the Japanese culture based on an abundance of water, having excellent ramen dinner (Isshin-doh, branch of TonRyu), came to realize it was the best vacation place. I found people in Kyoto were more down to earth, there was no vanity sometime present in Tokyo, I could really relax.

Weather was incredible despite the storm season we had two weeks of blazing sun days. Once the Hurricane #15 was approaching Kyoto/ Kansai region, it veered to Tokyo/ Kanto region at the last minute. It really made me believe the psychic power friend of mine promised after me. I often recall the great sights I saw from my bike. Though sometime it felt like I was eating traffic line on the pavement, in the end I really liked the rush kept me going long distance day after day. Thank you everybody.