I had leg injury at weekend soccer game that aggravated by racing the Rumble Thru The Bronx II. Consequently I had to give up the Boston-NYC R1. After the Courier GANGBANG Baltimore alleycat impromptu decision was made: going KYOTO LOCO 2005 by riding fixed gears from Tokyo taking the ROUTE 1 all the way. On the map it's 380 miles +. We trained ourselves next two month. Jason S. had schedule conflict, would join us from Yokkaichi to Kyoto. Nona joined us just before two weeks to go.

DAY 1: 09-16-05 Tokyo -> Numazu
Everyone talks about it, if you go west from Tokyo, the rising Mt. Hakone. I wanted to climb it before it gets dark, set to start at 8AM. The weather forecast assured us hot sunny days for rest of the week!

7AM, in front of Sumidagawa YH. We sent our travel bags + luggage to Kyoto first in the morning, carried only minimum pair of shirts and socks.

...and we had problem right from the start. My camel-bag started to leak. Nona had flat tire then broke my pump. Other minuscule pump wouldn't be reliable for rest of ride, headed to the bike store in Kanda, of cause it wouldn't open until 11. The store surprised to meet us again from our previous day visit -- they gave us detailed direction let to ROUTE 1. It's already three and half hours in, we finally started riding 11:30.

Tokyo to Yokohama was kind'a tricky but from there right upto Mt. Hakone was blast. We got there 5:30pm. Considering the delay at the upstart we're in good pace however by the time we started to climb, it became completely dark.

As we heard that Mt. Hakone was special. On the ultra steep winding road at every corne there were hot spa ("onsen"). A couple waiting for bus must be surprised three of us pushing bike emerged from pitch dark. We took bus to the mountain top. The downhill was equally steep and it's dark without any light. We pushed bike until there were enough streetlights.

10:16pm we arrived at Numazu Grand Hotel. On the map, 94 miles+ from Tokyo.
     

DAY 2: 09-17-05 Numazu -> Fukuroi
The original plan was to ride to Hamanako YH in Arai. On the map it supposed to be 103 miles...

Jason B got BB cup loose while climbing Hakone. First in the morning we fixed it, ready to ride!

Because I threw away leaking camel-bag, I entirely depended on water and sports drinks at vending machine. Luckily Japan was vending machine heaven: alcohol beverage, cigarette, hot coffee, hot noodle, etc. Every few blocks had vending machines even at deep in mountain. We had 90 degree hot days throughout. Buying drinks at every stop turned out to be a major expense.

When we're crossing the magnificent view of Mt. Fuji Nona got flat. It was good to purchase the reliable pump yesterday but the brand-new tube popped as soon as she put her wheel back in. We got to Shizuoka around noon. Shizuoka was verdant hills facing blue quiet ocean. It was a favorite painting subject in the Edo period telling the stories of traveling to Kyoto.

ROUTE 1 was heavy traffic road. Many of them were stingy truck drivers stayed away from the highway toll. If you follow the road sign in Japan it leads you to highway. Even worse, there were "new' R1 and old R1. Just followed the sign to R1 you'd be end up to new R1 Highway. Me and Jason B had to wait Nona to catch us up at the every road signs, taking breaks in every 20 minutes wasn't good pace. We ended up riding highway in late afternoon, cops waited for us at the exit. Apparently a lot of alerted drivers cellphoned police

Around the Kakegawa in a moonlight, we noticed there're limes of red lantana at hill slopes. It's beautiful from the pitch dark road... then we encountered an old man blocking traffic from entering to village

Turned out the entire village was in middle of harvest festival!

The shrine parade turned around right at the end of the main road. Later we learned from the old man they didn't apply municipal authorities for the permit, couldn't block traffic to parade it. Old men were volunteering to sway away traffic entering to village. Totally local community thing.

When the road became more urbanized, we stopped at Ramen restaurant in 8:30 pm, called Hamanako YH informing we'd be late but the YH was closed already. We opted to clash in the nearest hotel in Fukuroi city. From Numazu to Fukuroi, 75miles.

DAY 3: 09-18-05 Fukuroi -> Arai
This day supposed to be a day-off but we were 30 miles away to Hamanako YH.

When we checked in, President of Fukuroi Business Hotel invited all of us to Karaoke. We left there 10AM but Nona forgot her sunglasses had to back to the hotel again but couldn't find it.

On the map it's only 30 miles but it seemed twice long. The Hamanako area was beautiful. One side had the grand view of bridge, on the other hand Shinkansen (bullet train) was running.

The bridge behind him was the popular stage for old samurai movies.
We arrived at Hamanako YH around 4pm. We looked forward for this day-off, even it's already late in the afternoon. Nona headed to 'onsen' spa 15 miles other side of the lake. Me and Jason B had $$$ eel dinner. Later Nona reported she was bathed head to toe by Japanese ladies at the onsen. For us it sounded more like she was molested by bunch of curious old women.

DAY 4: 09-19-05 Arai -> Yokkaichi
Right out from Arai city, Nona and Jason B found perfect beach to enjoy their vacations. I rode just myself for next 90 miles. I was at Nagoya by 3pm. Back in March 2005, there was Int'l Expo at Nagoya. All roads were re-paved. Took Route 23 to shortcut. The R23 was three tiers five lanes super road. I was ready being stopped by cop but I must've rode inbetween their shift. Racing along with huge trucks on this high tech road made me feel like I was in the Blade Runner! My high pace ended abruptly by loud puncture on my rear tire just outside Nagoya.

There was huge outdoor goldfish dealer at the roadside of R1. See the price tag, it's ¥25,000 goldfish!!

Nishiki-Goi (colorful carp) often priced over ¥500,000 but this one's goldfish.

This goldfish was the size of grapefruit!!

I got Yokkaichi in 5:30pm. Yokkaichi was clean, very modern looking city.  Later the evening I got a call from Jason S. arrived in the city ready to ride upto Kyoto following morning.

DAY 5: 09-20-05 Yokkaichi -> Kyoto
The last leg wouldn't be easy. We had to climb Mt. Suzuka. Good news is, unlike the Mt. Hakone, it's the first half of the ride. 94 miles on the map to finish this thing.

10:43AM. Jason S. at the entrance of the Mt. Suzuka.

Motorcyclist I met at the Hamanako YH tipped me ROUTE 477 would be less traffic. I was getting tired of trucks passing inches aside of me. We opted for R477.

As soon as the road got steep I got flat tire. This time's on front. There was almost no traffic, we're able to keep easy pace.

11:23AM. This snap shot was bit tilted. Go ahead to adjust your head angle make the telephone pole to vertical. Still you see how much steep the road was.

The down below was already covered by fogs. At this point we made a pact we would take breaks as many as we needed but we never going to push the bike.

12:24PM. Thought we were almost getting there but there was the white guardrail sight between trees. We were running out of water, too. Thank god there's gorgeous spring water at the side road.

12:57PM We made it to the top. Later we found out R477 was much steeper than R1 but we liked it. Less car helped us a lot.

Jaosn S had GPS. We started from the altitude 3 meters. From the entrance to here was 2km horizontally. It's 22+ degrees uphill. There wass steep downhill until merged to R1. Jason S kept the fixed gear principal by back-pedaling. My legs were already burnt out, used a brake. At the end, I could fry eggs on my front wheel.

It's all easy slow slope to Kyoto. We had ramen as our well deserved lunch.

This restaurant waitress somehow looked a lot like the heroin from the one of Miike film.

For centuries, every shogun to merchants passing the Suzuka must have prayed at this shrine for their safety.

We got to UNO HOUSE around 8pm. Took shower, had dinner, strolled down the street for ice cream, stumbled to Jason B and Nona dragging their bikes in box all way from Kyoto station. We made it to Kyoto!!

09-21-05 Day-off
Recuperating from the 380 miles ride, took a day off. Jason S went sightseeing around the area, took lots of snapshots. There was public bath house ("sento") near our lodging. The sento had whole set of bubble bath, dry sauna, steam sauna, cold dip and electric pulse bath. If you're not careful your leg and butt would cramp badly standing still in the middle of the bath helpless.

Front of our lodging UNO HOUSE

This temple across from the UNO HOUSE had spring water well. Apparently it was famous for its quality.

For teas, making Tofu, for their bistros, people lining up every day to fetch the water in bottles, gallon containers, coming by bike, by moppet, by car. Every day, all day long.

Old neighbor says, before the city subway system was made, the well supplied more water.

 09-22-05 Day-off II

Me and Jason S checked out the KYOTO LOCO space. It was still empty, only few volunteers working around a clock for tomorrow's opening. Nice to find Toru-san met at CMWC NYC few month back. We were about to leave for sight seeing but Messenger KAZE stuff kept us to help their work.

We cleaned up the entrance, draped the main sponsor banner, made a sound stages. I heard Trackstar crews helped them to carry entire crates of drinks. Squid, as the tallest one in the bunch, was also helping hanging 30 feet tall video screen.

You must check this Tako-yaki place at Teramachi-dori + Takoyakushi-dori at Shinkyogoku mall when you are in Kyoto.

Top of steak source + mayo, comes with bonito three inches high and scallions another three inches. Jason S ate entire half pound of scallions!

As a NYC resident, complete absence of graffiti made me uneasy. I couldn't resist from taking snapshots when I found these at alley btwn the mall.

This dude rode the bike flat on front, and bare rim on rear!

Could be the future snap shot of me?

This tiniest temple was in the middle of Shinkyogoku mall. Kyoto rules!

Back on the temple was grave yard. The size of a bedroom.

 09-23-05

Lines for KYOTO LOCO registrations. Trackstar gangs were front of us. The banner at the entrance we set it up a day before looked great.

He's from Nagoya He and his friend vonteered setting up the space through the night.

KYOTO LOCO 2005 Checkpoints!

The main race qualifiers. The largest KYOTO LOCO ever. There were three heats for qualifiers. Mine was entry #112. I got too greedy delivering too many, too late to comeback within the time.

After excellent BBQ, we had Gold Sprint. Zach from Trackstar pedaling with only shorts on as usual.

Jason S on sprint.
I tried trackstand competition. I couldn't last even a minute! Later the evening all of us went 'sento' where had an outdoor one.

 09-24-05

We went to Gen Well Pro factory 10 miles south from UNO HOUSE. Jason B eyed on the frame at the backroom asked about it to staff replied "it has crack, I won't be responsible if you crack your head open but take it." This lucky devil got Gan Well Pro frame, freebie!!

When we back, dispatcher race was already on.

Minira-san from T-Serv.

Dai-san and his crew.

Trackstar crew + Squid.

Trackstar dispatcher Brad was loaded.

Wise Seattle team assaulting Godzilla!

Heather from SF.

SF dispatcher lined up beers for their crews.

Chie-san and Dai-San won the mini bike competitions.

T-Serv team was ecstatic at the 2nd place for dispatch race.

Trackstar won the dispatch race.

Shino-san won the main race.

Messenger KAZE staff the event organizer. Thank you!

After the closing ceremony, MIXPRESSION folks held an alleycat in midnight. The winner took all the entry cash. Jason B almost got the first Out of Town. Super fun stuff.

We stayed another day in Kyoto. It was fantastic two weeks of life time.

Weather was incredible despite Japan was in the storm season, we had two weeks of blazing sun. Once the Hurricane #15 was approaching Kyoto/ Kansai region, it veered to Tokyo/ Kanto region at the last minute. It really made me believe the psychic power friend. I often recall the great sights from riding a bike. Sometime it felt like I was eating traffic line on the pavement, in the end I really liked the thrills kept me going long distance day after day.